Basque Proverb of the Week: Proverb #45

Begiak noraino, nahia haraino.

As far as the eyes can see, that’s how far one’s desires go.

Image generated by Buber using ChatGPT.

These proverbs were collected by Jon Aske. For the full list, along with the origin and interpretation of each proverb, click this link.

Basque Fact of the Week: Architect Frank Gehry

Even as recently as the early 1990s, when I lived in Donostia for a year, Bilbao seemed this dirty place that wasn’t really worth a visit. I think in that whole year, I only visited a couple of times at most. However, the city transformed itself from a relic of industry to a modern and vibrant destination. Now, I can’t imagine a visit to the Basque Country without a stop in Bilbao. Though there are many factors that, together, led to this transformation, the symbolic heart of it all has to be Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum.

Frank Gehry (image from Artisan Architecture) and his two Basque masterpieces, the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao and the Marqués de Riscal Hotel.
  • Frank Owen Gehry was born in Toronto, Canada, on February 28, 1929. His mother, Sadie Thelma, had immigrated from Poland while his father, Irving Goldberg who was born in New York City, was the son of an immigrant from Russia. Both of his parents were Jewish. Gehry’s grandfather owned a hardware store and he often played with scraps of materials, building cities with his grandmother. In 1954, urged by his wife and fears of rising antisemitism, Frank changed his surname from Goldberg to Gehry.
  • The family moved to California in 1947 and after some aborted attempts at various pursuits including chemical engineering, Gehry settled on architecture, graduating from the University of Southern California in 1954. After a stint in the Army, he attended Harvard on the GI Bill, but became disillusioned and dropped out, returning to California. In 1957, he designed his first building – a private home. From there, his career took off.
  • In 1997, the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao opened. At the time, it faced significant criticism, particularly as an example of architectural imperialism. However, the building itself was hailed as a masterpiece of architecture, called “the greatest building of our time.” The curves of the building were intentionally designed to capture the light and the central atrium was designed with views of the estuary and the surrounding hills.
  • The museum has been credited with helping revitalize the city. Other cities have tried to replicate the “Bilbao effect” with unique architecture. However, Gehry himself downplayed the role of the museum, instead saying it was a collective effort and crediting the overall urban plan of the city and Basque government that his building was only one part of.
  • The Guggenheim isn’t the only building in the Basque Country that Gehry designed. He also designed the Marqués de Riscal Hotel, situated in the wine country of Araba, in the town of Elciego. Built between 2003-2006, the hotel’s design employs similar methods and elements that Gehry used in the Guggenheim. In both buildings, Gehry used flowing structures of titanium to capture the light and to give the buildings their unique flowing forms.
  • Gehry fell in love with the Basque Country. In 2014, the city of Bilbao built a bridge connecting Deusto and Zorrotzaurre which they named after Gehry. He was in the city for laying the cornerstone and during his visit he said “I fell in love with patxaran, txakoli, hake, and pil-pil. I love you all, I love Bilbao, and I will be back.” He felt that the Basques he worked with were particularly trustworthy, saying “When the Basques say something, you don’t have to get it in writing.  They keep their word in a way that I’d never seen before.”
  • Gehry died on December 5, 2025, at his home in Santa Monica, California. He was 96.

A full list of all of Buber’s Basque Facts of the Week can be found in the Archive.

Primary sources: Frank Gehry, Wikipedia; Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, Wikipedia; Marqués de Riscal Hotel, Wikipedia

Basque Proverb of the Week: Proverb #44

Begi bat aski du saldunak, ehun ez ditu sobera erostunak.

The seller needs but one eye, whereas for the buyer a hundred eyes are never
too many.

Image generated by Buber using ChatGPT.

These proverbs were collected by Jon Aske. For the full list, along with the origin and interpretation of each proverb, click this link.

Basque Fact of the Week: Marijesiak, the Christmas Carolers

Singing is such a part of Basque culture. More than once, I’ve been in a restaurant where everyone broke into song. Christmas is a time when singing abounds. Leave it to the Basques to then create unique traditions around songs and Christmas. The Marijesiak is a group of singers that roam the streets of primarily but not exclusively Gernika in the early mornings of the days leading up to Christmas.

The Marijesiak in the streets of Gernika, with a couple watching from their balcony. Photo from Marijesiak.eus, taken by Maika Salguero.
  • The Marijesiak is a Christmas tradition that takes place over the nine days before Christmas. Early each morning, starting at 4am, a group of men and women kneel in front of the main church of Gernika, the Church of Andra Mari. They begin singing their verses, with a lead soloist leading the procession through town while the rest of the singers accompanying the lead. There are some 28 verses that the soloist must recite from memory, of course in Basque. The group walks through the streets of Gernika, hitting as many parts as they can. They stop in front of every church, the houses of former members, and even shelters where people hid from the 1936 bombing. In all, the route takes about one-and-a-half hours to complete.
  • Each of the nine days, a different part of the Christmas story is told, from the Creation to the birth of Jesus. However, in recent times, some secular verses have also been added, including some that recognize the 1936 bombing of the town and the political reality of the Basque Country:

Hor goiko landetan
eperrak dabiltz kantetan
Errigoitiko alkatiari
Kaka eintziela praketan.
Hor goian Juaniko
hemen behean Periko
eta bien bitartean dago
Martzelino Polanko.
Hor goian Frantzia
Hor behean España
eta bien bitartean dago
Gora Euskadi Askatuta.

In the high lands
the partridges are singing
to the mayor of Errigoiti
that he has poop in his pants.
Up there is Juaniko
here below is Periko
and between the two is
Marzelino Polanko.
Up there is France
Down there is Spain
and in between is
Long Live a free Basque Country.

  • The Marijesiak is part of a larger tradition of Christmas carolers. In many parts of the Basque Country, it is common to see carolers on Christmas Eve. In some places they are known as the Joenikuek, “those of Saint Joseph,” or Abenduko umiek, “the Children of the Advent.” However, the Marijesiak, which are most prevalent in Gernika, have maintained the strongest tradition, one that was revived in the 1970s.
  • The name Marijesiak comes from the repeated verse of “Mary, Joseph, Jesus, Mary” which over time was combined and shortened into Marijesiak.
  • The origin of the Marijesiak tradition is not completely clear. Some theories postulate it arose from medieval religious theater while others state that it came from the local convents, perhaps the Franciscan monastery of Bermeo. The earliest mention we have of this tradition comes from the 17th century.
  • In 2018, Ane Miren Arejita became the first woman to be the lead soloist for the Marijesiak.

A full list of all of Buber’s Basque Facts of the Week can be found in the Archive.

Primary sources: Rementeria Arruza, Daniel. Marijeses de Gernika. Auñamendi Encyclopedia, 2025. Available at: https://aunamendi.eusko-ikaskuntza.eus/en/marijeses-de-gernika/ar-154039/; Marijesiak, Wikipedia; Marijesiak, Disfruta Bizkaia; The Marijesiak tradition in Gernika-Lumo (Bizkaia), Labayru; Gernikako Marjiesiak, Urdaibai; marijesiak.eus

Basque Proverb of the Week: Proverb #43

Bat izatea hobe, bi itxo egitea baino.

It’s better to have one than be waiting for two.

Image generated by Buber using ChatGPT.

These proverbs were collected by Jon Aske. For the full list, along with the origin and interpretation of each proverb, click this link.

Basque Fact of the Week: The Basques and the Romans

We don’t know much about the early history of the Basques. While discoveries such as the Hand of Irulegi reveal more than ever, there is still a lot that is shadowed in the mists of time. The Basques have never recorded their own history – what we know is typically from the pens of neighbors or other observers. This includes the Romans. The Romans certainly conquered much of the Iberian peninsula, including parts of the modern day Basque Country. Indeed, Pamplona is named after the Roman general Pompey. Much of what was written back then is through the lens of the conqueror and, even worse, by people who had only heard of the Basques but never visited the region.

Roman roads around and through parts of the modern day Basque Country, highlighting Roman settlements. From Itiner-e.
  • The website Itiner-e has put together a map of all of the roads of the Roman Empire. Nature calls it a “Google Maps” for Ancient Rome. It is quite interesting. If you zoom in on what is today the Basque Country, you can see a few roads around the periphery, but the interior is completely devoid of any Roman roads. This highlights how the Romans had very little activity in the region.
  • A lot of what we know about the Basques during the time of the Romans comes from Roman historians. Strabo, in particular, wrote about the Basques in his Geographica, an atlas of the world known to the Romans. Though, many of the places he wrote about he never visited, he was just repeating what others had said.
  • To Strabo and the Greek and Roman worlds, people in the far regions, particularly those in the mountains, were barbarous: “All the mountain dwellers are austere, they usually drink water, sleep on the ground and let their hair reach very low, like women, but they fight by girding their foreheads with a band. They eat mainly goats, and they sacrifice a goat to Ares. They also make hecatombs of every kind in the Greek way, as Pindar says: they sacrifice a hundred of everything.”
  • He goes on: “They also have gymnastic, hoplite and equestrian competitions, with boxing, running, skirmishing and combat in formation. The mountaineers, for two thirds of the year, feed on oak acorns, letting them dry, grinding them and making bread with them that keeps for a while. They also know beer. They drink wine on rare occasions, but what they have is quickly consumed at feasts with relatives. They use butter instead of oil. They eat sitting on benches built against the wall and they sit in order of age and rank. The food is passed around in a circle, and at the time of drinking they dance in a circle to the sound of flute and trumpet, but also jumping and crouching, and… women also dance together with men holding hands.”
  • “…those who live far inland use the barter of goods, or cut off a silver flake and give it. Those condemned to death are thrown off a cliff and parricides are stoned beyond the mountains or rivers. They marry just like the Greeks. The sick, like the Egyptians of old, are exposed on the roads so that those who have suffered from it can give them advice about their illness…..”
  • “This, as I have explained, is the way of life of the mountaineers, and I am referring to those who mark the northern flank of Iberia: Calaic, Asturians and Cantabrians up to the Basques and the Pyrenees; because the way of life of all of them is similar.”

A full list of all of Buber’s Basque Facts of the Week can be found in the Archive.

Primary sources: Estrabón y su mención a los pueblos del norte de la Península Ibérica by María Cruz González Rodríguez, Euskonews; Brughmans, T., de Soto, P., Pažout, A. and Bjerregaard Vahlstrup, P. (2024) Itiner-e: the digital atlas of ancient roads. https://itiner-e.org/

Buber’s Basque Mix: Sua

Every once in a while, I’m going to try to highlight a different Basque music group. A mix of some of my favorite Basque songs can be found on YouTube: Buber’s Basque Mix.

Sua taldea, photo from Bandcamp.

Today’s band is Sua – thanks to Eneko Ennekõike for pointing me to them. Hailing from the Bizkaian town of Maruri, a small village of about 1000 people just a bit north of Bilbao, Sua is an alternative rock band known that blends “raw post-punk energy with dreamy melodies and powerful female vocals. Singing in both Basque and English, they channel themes of rebellion, inner strength, and vulnerability into a sound that is both intimate and explosive (Spotify).”

The group has released three albums – a self-titled EP in 2019, Ordu beltzak also in 2019, and Gorde genituen beldurrak in 2022. Sua, meaning “fire” in Basque, consists of Ane Barrenetxea on vocals, Janire Lopez on bass, Julen Gilbert Wright on guitar, and Esteban Gaviria on drums (Wikipedia).

They just dropped their newest single, entitled “Rollercoaster,” with lyrics in English. The song is about the emotional ups and downs of dealing with people full of doubt and features Cecilia Boström from The Baboon Show. Check it out:

Basque Fact of the Week: A Sheepherder Basqlish Dictionary

Nearly none of the young men and women who immigrated to the United States from the Basque County to herd sheep in the American West had any knowledge of English. This wasn’t much of a problem as they typically worked with other Basques. However, encounters with the dominant language of their new home were unavoidable and sometimes represented concepts that they didn’t have a Basque word for, so they simply transliterated the English word into Basque spelling. This leads to an interesting collection of “Basqlish” words.

Joxe and me with his daughter and my family at Jaialdi.
  • Joxe Mallea-Olaetxe, who has done extensive research on Basque arboglyphs, has uncovered a number of transliterations of English words to Basque. Some of these will be familiar to those who had a Basque parent – you can almost hear their accent coming through. He shared these with me after I wished him Happy Thanksgiving.
  • Here are a few of Joxe’s favorites. The English equivalent is hidden in white text next to each Basqlish word – just highlight the text to reveal the English word. But, before you do, can you guess what the word is? I only got about half of them…

aizkrime
anburgesa
esprinkola
estorra
foki
grinjouse
karrue
kukia/kukije
morojona
mubije/mubia
paia/paije
pikapa
sanabitxe
saniskibi
sizpaka
taia/taije
troka
txip
uintxila
xata
zereala

A full list of all of Buber’s Basque Facts of the Week can be found in the Archive.

Primary sources: Joxe Male-Olaetxe, private communication.

Calling all Basque Merchants

Seasons greetings! Gabon Zoriontsua! We are in the heart of the holiday season and people are looking for that special gift for their Basque loved ones. Diana Echeverria had a great suggestion of creating a list of merchants and businesses that are either Basque owned or sell Basque-themed products. If you have such a business and would like to be listed in the Merkatua page, let me know and I’ll be happy to add you. I just ask that the business is either Basque owned or sells Basque-themed products.